The menu

Long-grain rice cooked down in smoked pepper and tomato until the bottom catches. The one everyone argues about.

Melon seed stewed with spinach and goat, served with yam pounded to order. The dish people come back for.

Beef rubbed in groundnut and chilli, flamed hard and fast, finished with raw onion and more yaji.

Wings braised then fried, tossed through a pepper sauce that does not apologise for itself.

Smoked goat, scotch bonnet, onion, lime. The plate that empties before anything else reaches the table.

Honey beans slow-cooked in palm oil with sweet fried plantain. Gentle, and quietly the best thing here.

Catfish in a thin, fierce broth built on uziza and calabash nutmeg. Ordered when someone has a cold.

Steamed bean pudding, soft as custard, with peppers folded through. Order two, you will want two.

Spinach stewed hard with locust bean, assorted meat and palm oil. Comes with your choice of swallow.

Short-grain local rice with green pepper sauce and bleached palm oil. The Sunday dish, all week.

Fried dough, warm, dusted. Six to a plate and no one ever gets three each.

The Lagos cocktail — bitters, citrus, cucumber. Made properly, which means not too sweet.